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NEVER connect Tesla modules in parallel. Fire Danger!

Several customers have asked me for instructions on connecting multiple parallel Tesla battery modules to a single Pathfinder BMS. I set up a demonstration on how this could be done, but stumbled upon the exact reason why this is NOT acceptable and almost burned down my shop.

After stacking up these modules, I started measuring each cell to be sure that the modules were balanced, and found a few cells that were reading zero, despite the main terminals of the module reading 24v. So, I disassembled the module and found the problem. It had corrosion on the bottom of the module, and all 3 of the balance wires on the side were detached from the bus plates. If this module was connected directly to a BMS, it would be reading open circuit connections to the cells and not turn on.

HOWEVER, if this was connected in parallel with a healthy module, the BMS would be reading good voltage and have no idea that some of the cells were unprotected. When this assembly is charged, the bad module is VERY LIKELY to catch fire. Why, you ask? Remember that the balance wires came off due to corrosion, so its inevitable that some of the cells have the same issue. This leaves one of the cell groups at a lower capacity, meaning it will reach full charge before the other cells. Normally in this case the BMS would shut off with a cell over voltage alarm, but since the balance wire is broken, it will continue to allow charge, and the bad cell group will very quickly overcharge and start to burn.

Even if this setup starts with perfectly healthy battery modules, future corrosion would create the same dangerous condition.

There is NO way to make a parallel Tesla battery safe. This is why 1 BMS per Tesla module is REQUIRED. (or 1 BMS per 2 Tesla modules in series– this is fine)

In all cases, we insist that Tesla module batteries are installed in a detached structure. (Solar shed) Do not install them in your home!

BTW, this corrosion is probably the reason why this Model S went to the junkyard.

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USB signal interference

I’ve been testing the pathfinder BMS with various equipment, and found that the USB connection is vulnerable to electrical noise from a big cheap inverter. We noticed this problem in the past with the JBD BMSs as well. (This doesn’t affect Wifi or Bluetooth)

This interference causes the USB port to stop communication, and the BMS must be rebooted to get it going again. We are working an getting the firmware to automatically restart the USB connection, but it doesn’t work yet. Remember, all Pathfinder BMSs can get firmware upgrades via OTA or UF2, so everyone will be able get the firmware solution later.

Other than getting a better inverter, the best solution seems to be adding ferrite chokes to the USB cable. I found that 2 or 3 snap on ferrite chokes is enough to stabilize the connection. Wrapping the cable 3 times thru a large ferrite ring had the best results, almost completely eliminating the interference when measured on the PC side.

Our very noisy inverter. This thing is crap, but great for testing interference.
Ferrites added to the USB cable. The large ring gave the best results.

We will do some experiments with adding common mode chokes to the Pathfinder circuit board and possibly add them to the next revision.

Better quality inverters produce far less noise, so this isn’t an issue for most customers. For example in the past we found that a Renogy inverter produced the least noise out all the units tested in our shop.

Details and scope traces:

I measured the signal interference using an oscilloscope at the PC end of the USB cable. Not much to see here. Yellow and Blue are the signal lines, Data+ and Data-.

The Inverter produces pulses of RF interference, and between pulses, the USB signal looks fine.

Inverter off, no chokes.
Inverter on, no chokes.

Here, I’ve zoomed out the time scale and added the purple trace on the inverter’s DC terminals. The pulses are happening at 21kHz, which is the inverter’s switching frequency. On the left side you can see a USB communication packet, which occurred between pulses of interference.

The real problem happens when the pulse of interference causes ringing on the USB signal lines as seen here. USB signals are mostly differential, but both lines pulled low means EOP or end-of-packet. This time, the ringing interference pulled the blue trace low enough that the USB controller would read an EOP signal.

Here, I added 3 snap on chokes (left), or wrapped the cable thru a large ferrite ring choke (right). In both cases the interference is dampened enough to prevent spurious EOP signals, but the large ring has the best results by far.

USB cable with 3 snap-on chokes, inverter on.
USB cable with Big ring choke, inverter on.

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2 ways to use the OKS BMS Mobile App on Amazon Fire tablets

Tested on:

  • Fire HD 10 (11th Generation)
  • Fire 7

Amazon Fire tablets are cheap, yet they look and feel like a far more expensive tablet. In fact they are the best cheap tablet we have tried using by a wide margin. The screen is high resolution and its responsive, and the battery life is excellent.

So what’s the catch? The tablet is basically an Amazon ad delivery platform. It has a special version of the Android operating system and it has a lot of built in junk that you can’t delete. It also has it’s own version of an app store called the Amazon App Store. It does not come with the google play store, so you can’t load most of the apps that you are used to having. Unless, of course you hack it!

(We have not tested our app on older generations of Fire tablet hardware. If you encounter an incompatible device please let us know.)

Method 1: Sideload the Google Play Store APKs

We followed this guide on Howtogeek.com and successfully loaded the Google play store on our Fire HD 10 tablet. (Here’s a PDF of the instructions, in case the link breaks in the future) It’s a bit of a PITA because you have to identify 4 different APKs that match your hardware version and sideload them on the tablet. It’s worth the effort though, because then you can install any Play Store app normally, including the Overkill Solar BMS Mobile app. When tested on the Fire HD 10, the app performed flawlessly. You still need a google account to use the play store

Method 2: Sideload the Overkill Solar APK

The Overkill Solar BMS Mobile App can be sideloaded from the .APK file on Fire tablets just like any other Android device. Grab the latest release from our Github, enable permissions for installing 3rd party apps on your device, and install. HowtoGeek.com also has a helpful guide for sideloading apps. (click here for PDF copy)

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How to identify Tesla Rev. A-B-C modules with photos

Battery modules from Model S and Model X cars come in several revisions, known as Rev A, Rev B, and Rev C. They look very similar in photos, but the balance wire connections differ. Use this guide to identify your revision before ordering a BMS kit.

Outside

Inside

If you have the chance to remove the old Tesla BMS board, It’s easier to see the differences.


Misidentification or Misrepresentation?

Unfortunately it seems to be quite common for sellers of these batteries to send a different revision, or even show photos of different revisions on the same eBay listing. If you end up with a different battery that doesn’t match your BMS kit, contact support@overkillsolar.com and we will exchange the adapter board.

For example, I found these photos on eBay- one shows a pallet of Rev A modules, and the next photo is a close up of a Rev B module:


Tesla battery capacity

Each car battery can be broken down into 16 modules. Each module is a 6 cell Lithium-ion battery that puts out 24 volts, and they weigh about 65 pounds each (30kg).

The capacity of each module when new can be found by dividing the car’s advertised battery size by 16. Example: for an 85kWh (kilowatt-hour) battery pack, each module holds 5.3kWh when new. The capacity degrades with age, as all batteries do.

We have also seen examples of modules that were damaged by leaking coolant, which corrodes the bond wires to each of the individual 18650 cells. Modules in this condition will have a significantly lower capacity than a healthy module from the same car.

Model 3 / Model Y batteries

Model 3 and Model Y cars have a different type of module. The car battery contains 4 large modules, each of them has 24 cells and they put out about 96 volts. We do not recommend these modules for DIY projects due to the extreme danger of working with 96 volts DC.

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BMS Configuration for alternative cell counts (i.e. Tesla Modules)

This PDF describes how to modify an Overkill Solar BMS for alternative cell counts.

Overkill Solar normally stocks 3 basic BMS models, which are configured for the most common Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) battery setups: 4 cell 12v nominal, 8 cell 24v nominal, and 16 cell 48v nominal.

When using a different cell chemistry such as classic lithium ion, the number of cells needs to be adjusted to reach a usable system voltage. Common setups are 6 or 7 cells for a 24v system, and 12 or 13 cells for a 48v system.

Download the PDF instructions to read on: BMS_configuration_for_other_cell_counts-4S_and_8S-Overkill_Solar_LLC.pdf

Adapting an 8s BMS for 6s Tesla modules

Our Tesla BMS kits include a 8s BMS which has been preprogrammed with the parameters for 6 cell Tesla modules, and the included adapter board makes the necessary connections to make the BMS work with 6 cells. If you already have a BMS in the 8 cell configuration, you can adapt it for 6 cells by shorting 2 pairs of the balance wires together as shown in the above PDF, and in the photo below:

After making these connections, you can load the configuration file “6s_Tesla_Li-ion” from the Overkill Solar mobile app.